Socialising puppies: in the litter and beyond

A well-socialised dog feels at ease with people, other animals and everyday situations. That doesn’t happen by itself. In its first months a puppy learns what is normal and safe, and what it doesn’t get to know during this time can frighten it later on. That is why socialisation is a shared responsibility of the breeder and the new owner.

What is socialisation?

Socialisation is the process through which a puppy learns to deal with people and other animals. Habituation is the related process through which it learns that sounds, objects and environments are not dangerous. Together they help a dog go through life calm and confident.

Developmental stages

• Neonatal stage (0 to about 2 weeks): the puppy is blind and deaf and mainly busy feeding, sleeping and staying warm. Gentle handling by the breeder is already useful.
• Transitional stage (about 2 to 3 weeks): the eyes and ears open and the puppy starts to walk and notice its surroundings.
• Socialisation stage (about 3 to 12 or 14 weeks): the most important period. The puppy is open to new experiences and learns fast. Anything it gets to know in a positive way now, it will later regard as normal.
• Juvenile period and adolescence: socialisation is still needed. What a puppy has learned must be maintained, and during adolescence a dog may temporarily become less confident.

In the litter: what the breeder does

Puppies raised indoors, in the middle of daily life, naturally get plenty of stimulation. A breeder supplements this with targeted experiences, adapted to each puppy’s age and pace:

• being gently picked up every day, and having paws, ears and muzzle touched;
• different surfaces: grass, tiles, wood, carpet, a wobbly surface;
• household sounds such as the vacuum cleaner, washing machine, doorbell, music and children’s voices;
• visits from different people: children, adults, people wearing a hat or glasses, or using a walking stick;
• short periods away from mother and littermates, and an introduction to a crate and a short car ride;
• safe introductions to other healthy, calm dogs and perhaps a cat.

The mother and littermates also teach the puppy a great deal: how hard it may bite, how to read other dogs' signals and how to cope with frustration. That is why puppies stay with the litter for at least eight weeks. In Belgium, puppies are also not allowed to change owner before eight weeks of age.

After the move: the first weeks at home

Moving to a new home is a big step. Give your puppy peace and quiet and a fixed routine in the first days, with a sleeping place of its own. Then carry on where the breeder left off.

• Let it calmly get to know new people, places, vehicles and sounds.
• Make sure every experience ends well, for example with a reward or a game.
• Quality beats quantity: one calm, good experience is better than five overwhelming ones.
• Let the puppy set the pace. Don’t pull it towards something it is afraid of.
• Practise leaving it alone briefly every day, so it learns that you will come back.
• Join a puppy class where puppies play and learn in small, supervised groups.

Vaccinations and socialisation

Many owners wonder whether their puppy may go out before its vaccinations are complete. The risk of infection has to be weighed against the risk of behaviour problems caused by poor socialisation, and the latter is often greater. Discuss with your vet which places and contacts are safe: your own garden, visits to friends, healthy vaccinated dogs and a good puppy class. Avoid places frequented by many unknown dogs until your puppy is fully protected.

Fear periods

Around eight to ten weeks, and often again during adolescence, many dogs go through a period in which they are more sensitive to frightening experiences. A bad experience can then leave a lasting impression. Be extra careful during these periods, force nothing and help your puppy recover calmly when it gets a fright.

Signs that it’s too much

An overwhelmed or frightened puppy shows it: it licks its lips, yawns, turns its head away, tucks its tail, freezes or tries to move away. Take these signals seriously and give it distance and calm. The guide Animal welfare and enrichment tells you more about stress signals.

A socialisation checklist

Make a list of what you want your puppy to get to know calmly in its first months, and tick off what went well:

• people of different ages and appearances;
• other dogs, cats and animals it may meet later;
• traffic, bicycles, a bus or train, a busy street;
• the vet, the groomer and care such as tooth brushing and nail clipping;
• rain, wind, darkness and unusual sounds such as thunder and fireworks (quietly at first, using a recording);
• being alone, resting in the crate and travelling in the car.

When to seek help

If your puppy is very fearful, reacts strongly to people or dogs, or simply cannot be left alone, don’t wait for it to pass. Talk to your vet and get help from a qualified behaviourist. The earlier you start, the better the chances.

In short

• The period from about 3 to 12 or 14 weeks is the most important window for socialisation.
• A good breeder starts in the litter with targeted, calm experiences.
• Puppies stay with their mother and littermates for at least eight weeks.
• At home, provide positive, calm experiences and let your puppy set the pace.
• Discuss with your vet how to socialise safely before vaccinations are complete.